After significant rain all day Thursday and Thursday night, Friday morning dawned overcast but dry.  We set out about 8 AM, with Diane on her Honda VFR and me on my BMW K1200RS.  We rode through Owensboro, and then took KY 54 to Fordsville.  After a stop for breakfast at the Bluegrass Café, we continued to Leitchfield where we picked up KY 88 East.  It took us for a nice ride through Munfordville to Greensburg where we picked up US 68 to Campbellsville, then KY 70 and 635 on into Somerset where we stopped for a late lunch.

After a short jaunt to Mt. Vernon, we were primed and ready to hit KY 89, the first of the twisties!  Unfortunately, the early stages of the road didn't live up to its billing, as it was narrow with no painted center line or fog lines, and the pavement was in rather poor condition.  Okay for touring perhaps, but certainly not very conducive to sport riding.  We even crossed a single-lane wooden deck bridge, with protruding nails that raised concerns about a punctured tire.  The middle and later stages of the 50-mile run did have their high points with some nice sweeping curves, but the extremely poor quality of the pavement in places prevented the run from being one I will be eager to repeat any time soon.  We eventually hit KY 82 and KY 11, and called it a day in Mt. Sterling after logging about 335 miles of two lane.  Tired but in good spirits, we enjoyed supper at Miss Lottie's in downtown Mt. Sterling.  (By the way, at $37.95, the Days Inn was an exceptional value!)

Saturday morning found us heading south on US 460 toward Frenchburg, where we planned to hit the second twisty, KY 77 and 715 through the Daniel Boone National Forest.  Once again, these roads were very scenic as they wound their way through the park, but their narrowness and lack of shoulders precluded any serious riding.  So, we sat back and enjoyed the view.

At the end of KY 715, we picked up KY 15 and followed it south to just below Jackson, where we picked up KY 476, another twisty from the book.  Despite the earlier disappointments, this one was the real thing.  The road took us over 25 miles of spectacular sweepers and smooth roads with little traffic.  Just when we thought it couldn't get any better, we headed east on KY 550, and were treated to another 14 mile stretch of equally spectacular highway and scenery.

A short trip down KY 160 and 15 found us in Whitesburg, where we lunched at the quite upscale Pine Mountain Grille, which seemed somewhat out of place in this otherwise traditional Appalachian town.  From Whitesburg, we headed east on US 119 (another route from the book).  Its collection of steep, winding switchbacks was spoiled only by some major road construction in the early stages of the run.  Why is it that so many great highways are being "improved" by straightening and four-laning?  Can't they think up better ways to put our tax-dollars to work?

After passing through Harlan, and heading south a short distance on US 421, we picked up KY 987.  Here again, the book's promises were warranted, as the road turned out to be a real delight.  After 35 miles of unadulterated joy, we found ourselves once again heading east on US 119.  It took us through Pineville, to KY 92, a great run that's not in the book but should be.  As it turns out, we had ridden this twisty quite by accident last year, but once again it was a winner.  It starts with rolling hills and sweepers that eventually turn into some serious elevation changes and switchbacks that wouldn't be out of place at Deal's Gap.

KY 92 carried us to US 27, where a short ride south ended the 315-mile day in Oneida, Tennessee.  We stayed at the modest but comfortable Tobe's Motel, which oozes with the ambiance and charm of a 1950's motor court (and it boasts its own restaurant).  It was here that we met up with our friends Tambi and Keith Miles, who ride a Kawasaki ZRX1100 and a BMW R1150RT, respectively.  Tambi and Keith had planned to make the entire trip with us, but work and family responsibilities dictated only a two-day trip for them.

On Easter Sunday, the four of us headed west on TN 297 through the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area.  The road is very scenic as it crosses the South Fork of the Cumberland River, and it features some of the most severe switchbacks I've ever seen.  But you've got to love that "Curves Ahead" sign!

Unfortunately, the reduced speed limit as it traverses the recreation area prevents any aggressive riding.  However, at its end, we turned south on TN 154 for a short stretch of undulating curves that would make a belly dancer jealous.

After making our way through Jamestown, we picked up TN 52, and followed it some 55 miles through Celina.  This is a highway that I've ridden a good bit, and over the last few years it has seen its share of tax-dollar "improvements."  But when it comes to putting in some miles, it remains a truly great sport-touring highway.

We took TN 51 and KY 163 into Tompkinsville, KY, and then KY 63 north to Glasgow.  KY 63 is another truly delightful ride, especially those first 20 miles or so north of Tompkinsville.  Since most of it is through treeless pasture land, the curves and elevation changes tend to be very visible, thus cultivating a high degree of rider confidence.

From Glasgow the roads were a bit more sedate, as we took KY 90 to Cave City, and KY 70 through the Mammoth Cave National Park and on to US 231.  Following a hearty lunch at the Beaver Dam Café (one of our favorite eateries), we fought off the urge for an afternoon nap as we made our way homeward.

Despite some early disappointments along the way, this turned out to be an outstanding trip with some truly righteous roads.  I can't wait for another visit to Eastern Kentucky, and a chance to ride more of its extreme twisties.

Chris Hancock                April 2003